For only the second time in my life, I’m in the Slav world: I walked from Italy into Slovenia earlier in the week and spent yesterday exploring Ljubljana, before today heading on to Zagreb. But Crikey doesn’t pay me to write travelogues, so instead of talking about the scenery (wonderful) or the weather (cold), I’ll focus on geopolitics.

For centuries, one of the reigning myths of western Europe (to which the Anglo settlement of Australia is also heir) has been that the Slavs are barbarians: peasant peoples unfit for self-government. The myth has been fortified by repeated waves of conquest and colonisation; most recently, it was a powerful ingredient in the Cold War. Before that, the German, Austro-Hungarian and Italian empires were the west’s bulwark against the Slav world.

But things have changed in the past 20 years. On all accounts Slovenia is one of the great success stories of post-communist Europe. For years a secure province of the Austrian empire, not even in the borderlands, it later became part of Yugoslavia before winning its independence in a brief war in 1991. It is now a peaceful and prosperous member of the EU.

As usual, though, talk about the Slavs ends up being talk about the Russians. What happens to Slovenia concerns mostly the Slovenians, but Russia overshadows its fellow Slavs and, indeed, all of Europe. It has been the stage villain in western morality plays for at least two hundred years. Its integration into an open and democratic Europe is a matter of vital importance — if it’s possible. Is it?

Slovenia is unmistakably Slav — for a westerner, the deep incomprehensibility of the language gives it away. The extension of democracy eastwards has confounded a lot of sceptics. But democracy in Russia still seems tantalisingly elusive.

So what’s the moral of this? Unfortunately, different people will draw it differently — although perhaps that’s a moral in itself. Those who want to believe that Slavs need the civilising influence of Germans or Italians can continue to do so. I see it differently: democracy, or constitutionalism (the Austrian empire was no democracy), doesn’t happen overnight; it takes work and practice, but that practice is available to everyone.

We now know what could still be doubted 50 years ago, that Slav nations can be liberal democracies. That warrants optimism about Russia. And if there is nothing anti-democratic in the Slav soul, that’s another reason to doubt the similar nonsense still spread about the Chinese, the Arabs, or whoever the latest bogeyperson might be.