(Image: Mitchell Squire/Private Media)

“The price of food is through the roof.” This is a widely held belief, but is it true?

In the week the prime minister admitted he doesn’t know how much a litre of milk or a loaf of bread costs, we dive into the supermarket aisles to find the truth about the price of groceries, and how they have changed.

In the past two years, food and non-alcoholic beverages cost 5% more. That’s the overarching category — you can see it about a quarter of the way down the following graph. As usual, there are products that have risen in price by less than the category overall, and products that have risen by more.

Your choice of meat makes a big difference. Like a bolognaise sauce? You probably reckon food inflation is high. Prefer penne al pollo? You reckon inflation is low. The reason beef prices have shot up so much is the recent rains. The number of cattle sent to slaughter has fallen from 200,000 every three months to 150,000 as farmers try to let their herds live long and multiply. They call this “restocking”. 

Eventually the paddocks of Australia will be full and the number of head of cattle processed will return to normal. That should cause some normalisation in beef prices. Then, of course, in the next El Niño, every cow and her calf will be sent off to the abattoir and steak prices should plummet.

Fruit and vegies have also risen in price heavily, while bread, wine, coffee and tea are more stable, rising by less than inflation. Breakfast cereals have also stayed cheap — it’s a great time to have Weet-Bix for a snack! 

In summary, a few notable items have shot up in the past two years but the great bulk of your shopping list is pretty stable. Don’t believe people who say their grocery bill has suddenly doubled. But to be fair, inflation in food items is higher than inflation overall, and certainly higher than wages growth in the past two years. 

What about the long run?

I remember when meat pies cost less than $1. Now they’re more like $5. What’s happened to food prices over a longer period?

As this next chart shows, the highest price rises have been in lamb and goat meat (mostly lamb; Aussies eat hardly any goat). They have risen more than threefold since 1990. Beer is also up a lot, although that mostly has to do with taxes. Vegetables are up a lot too. I wonder how much of that has to do with changed expectations about the quality of what we get — capsicums were not so big and bright red in my youth. 

Also up at the top end are restaurant meals and takeaway foods, whose prices have been driven up by rising wages over the past three decades. 

“Food and non-alcoholic beverages” — the overarching category — has risen 123% in 31 years, slightly more than doubling. CPI inflation in the same period has been 108%, so food has risen in price slightly faster than the overall basket of goods.

Over this multi-decade period chicken is down the bottom of the ranks of price-risers. Seafood price inflation is also surprisingly low, speaking to the incredible cost-efficiency of industrialised food production. Farmed fish is now nearly half of the seafood we eat. Also chicken and seafood production need very little land, and we know what has happened to the price of land.

Feeding your family has certainly become more expensive over the years, but not so expensive as to make it the number one issue at election time. 

In my view, progressive people should mostly shut up about the cost of living, because when the cost of living dominates political discourse it becomes impossible to make structural changes that could make the world a better place. Action on, say, climate change and action on the price of petrol/beef/bread are basically mutually exclusive. 

What government will introduce a policy that could have some adjustment costs when people are ultra-sensitive to costs? Prime ministers might not know the price of bread, but they know people will blame them if it goes up. 

Are you feeling slugged at the supermarket? Let us know your thoughts by writing to letters@crikey.com.au. Please include your full name if you would like to be considered for publication in Crikey’s Your Say column. We reserve the right to edit for length and clarity.